Mysore (Mysuru) is a city where culinary traditions are as rich as its history. From the Wadiyar dynasty’s opulent feasts to the Devaraja Market’s bustling lanes, Mysore’s food tells a story of royal grandeur, regional flavours, and timeless innovation. Let’s embark on a gastronomic journey through this city’s iconic dishes, where every bite blends heritage and creativity.
Royal Kitchens: The Legacy of the Wadiyars
The Wadiyar kings, who ruled Mysore for over six centuries, were connoisseurs of art, culture, and cuisine. Their royal kitchens (Oota Bhojana) were laboratories of culinary excellence, blending local ingredients with meticulous techniques.
1. Mysore Pak: A Sweet Accident
Legend has it that Mysore Pak, the city’s signature sweet, was invented in the palace kitchen by chef Kakasura Madappa during Krishnaraja Wadiyar IV’s reign. A serendipitous mix of gram flour, ghee, and sugar yielded this golden, crumbly delight. Today, it’s a symbol of celebration, often served at weddings and festivals.
2. Bisi Bele Bath: The Royal Comfort Food
Translating to “hot lentil rice,” this hearty dish of rice, lentils, and vegetables simmered in tamarind and spice blends (bisi bele bath masala) was a palace favourite. Traditionally served in brassware or banana leaves, it embodies Karnataka’s love for robust, flavorful meals.
3. Obbattu (Holige): Festive Flatbreads
These sweet flatbreads stuffed with jaggery-lentil paste were perfected in royal kitchens. A seasonal speciality during Ugadi and Dasara, they highlight Mysore’s mastery of balancing textures and flavours.
The Wadiyars also popularized elaborate vegetarian thalis, featuring dishes like Kempanna’s Obbattu (a lentil-stuffed delicacy) and Kayi Holige (coconut-jaggery flatbread). Even today, heritage restaurants like Hotel RRR and Vinayaka Mylari keep these traditions alive.
Street Food: The Soul of Mysore’s Streets
Mysore’s street food scene is a vibrant tapestry of flavours where age-old recipes meet everyday hustle. Head to Devaraja Market or Sayyaji Rao Road to savour these iconic bites:
1. Mysore Masala Dosa
A crispy rice-lentil crepe slathered with fiery red Mysore chutney (made with red chillies, garlic, and tamarind) and stuffed with spiced potatoes. Unlike its Bangalore cousin, Mysore’s version is bold and unapologetically spicy.
2. Churmuri and Masala Puri
– Churmuri: Puffed rice tossed with onions, tomatoes, and a tangy spice mix, served in newspaper cones.
– Masala Puri: Crisp puris drowned in a spicy pea gravy, topped with crunchy sev and onions—a textural delight.
3. Rava Idli and Filter Coffee
Mysore’s twist on the classic idli, made with semolina (rava) for a fluffier bite. Pair it with aromatic filter coffee, brewed strong and served in steel tumblers.
Don’t miss Guru Sweets for melt-in-mouth Mysore Pak or Hotel Hanumanthu Old for fiery mutton pulao, a nod to Mysore’s lesser-known non-vegetarian traditions.
Spices, Staples, and Sustainability
Mysore’s cuisine thrives on locally sourced ingredients:
– Ragi (Finger Millet): Nutrient-rich ragi mudde (dumplings) and ragi dosa are staples.
– Coconut and Tamarind: Essential for balancing sweetness and tang in dishes like Gojju (vegetable stew).
– Mysore Sandalwood Oil: Rarely used in cooking, but its aroma infuses the city’s cultural identity.
Traditional tools like stone grinders and brass vessels are still prized for enhancing flavours, while banana leaves add an earthy touch to meals.
Festivals and Food: A Divine Connection
Food is central to Mysore’s festivals:
– Dasara: Elaborate feasts featuring Payasa (sweet pudding) and Mysore Pak mark the celebrations.
– Ugadi: The New Year feast includes Bevu-Bella (neem-jaggery mix) and Obbattu.
– Local Temples: Prasadams like Pongal and Puliyogare (tamarind rice) reflect devotional simplicity.
Modern Mysore: Tradition Meets Innovation
Today’s chefs and home cooks honour tradition while embracing creativity:
– Mysore Pak Cheesecake: A fusion dessert at cafes like The Old House.
– Organic Ragi Cafes: Health-centric spots like Anokhi reinvents millet-based dishes.
– Farm-to-Table Trends: Restaurants like Green Leaf highlight seasonal, local produce.
Mysore’s culinary heritage is a vibrant and evolving story. Whether enjoying a royal thali at a heritage hotel or savouring a spicy masala puri on a busy street, the city invites you to sample its rich history. As the Kannada proverb says, “Oota Aytha, Santrupti Aytha” (When the meal is done, contentment follows).
Come hungry, leave inspired—Mysore’s flavours await you.